Lake Malawi is incredibly beautiful. It reminds me a lot of Lake Atitlan in Guatemala in terms of it's majestic presence and it's peace and tranquilty. I decided to take a weekend trip this past weekend as I had been pretty much working 7 days a week for the past 4 weeks. Lilongwe is a nice city. It's the capital and things are pretty chill and relaxed. I stay near area 3 which has everything I need. A grocery store, internet cafe's and a man standing on a huge boulder every morning yelling versuses from the bible- which makes my ears ring sometimes.
That being said, Lilongwe is very spread out and not having a vehicle has really put a damper on my nightlife experience. It was time to head out to Lake Malawi and I was looking forward to further getting tanned (i'm browner than my normal brown) and lay by the beach with alcohol in hand.
I caught a bus from the old part of the city and headed to the town of Monkey Bay- yes that's the name of the town. The bus ride-well what an i say-- was very interesting. Most of the way I was sandwiched with fellow passengers and it was interesting to see vendors selling all kinds of merchandise-transactions being made through bus windows. Among the items I saw for sale during the 7 hour trip-- avocados, shelled peanuts, fried dough balls (my favorite breakfast), samoosas, raw fish ( a bundle of 6 if u wanted), a live chicken, a razor blade for shaving as well as a huge kitchen knife. I'm proud to say that I was glad no one opted to buy the kitchen knife.
I arrived in Monkey bay around 6:30 pm and while my plan was to head to the vibrant city of cape maclear which was only accessible through a dirt road, it was getting dark and decided to stay the night at monkey bay.
I met some travlers along the way and we headed to the same hotel where the night was spent drinking away and laying by the beach. I also met an australlian guy. Maybe in his mid 30s who was riding a motorbike for charity across the entire african subcontinent with the goal to reach Cairo by end of May. We talked a great deal about our experiences in Africa. Had a great dinner which took long to prepare and I was kind of uncertain what the meat dish on my plate was. I had ordered chicken, but for some reason it didn't taste like chicken. Luckily i found some "chicken tasting powder" bottle and poured a bunch of it on and wa-la it tasted like chicken.
The night was well... lets just say that i slept with my headlamp propped on the table and i slept over the sheets not under. There were lizards scurring around, spiders that look like flat taruntals on the wall-bigger ones than the ones at the place i stay in lilongwe and the sheets didn't look like they had been washed. Everything you would expect from a backpacker's hostel-but it's all about the experience.
The next day, i just sat by the beach and relaxed, did a little leisure reading until around 1pm decided to make my way to Cape Maclear. I was suprised but excited to learn that i would be standing in the back of a pick-up truck which was my transport to this part of the lake.
Bumpy roads, zooming so fast I thought my contact lenses were gonna peel out of my eyes and dodging and ducking branches from trees I made it to cape maclear. Cape Maclear was well.... simply amazing!! pristine waters, blue sky and a festive atmosphere. The town was lined up with beach front lodges making it a superb tourist destination and weekend get away.
I stayed in a large room that comprised of a bunch of bunk beds. This was also a backpackers hostel. Met some german ppl who were my roomates and we grabbed dinner and drinks where we met more german ppl. I was the only american and never before Have i heard so much german. Later that night I met an american from san diego who was traveling through africa.
After dinner and drinks, the plan was to head out to a local bar and have more drinks.
After 4 weeks of working- i felt alcohol deprived and what else could I do but replenish my liver enzymes.
We headed to a club called the hippo lounge which was great. Met a lot of locals, and even some familar faces that i saw in Monkey bay. There were plenty of drinks, dancing, laughter and many shots of liquor on the house by the owner until around 4 am I figured it was time to go back as i had to catch the 6 am bus back to monkey bay and then lilongwe
On the pickup ride back I ran into a medical student from Scotland who was doing a rotation at a rural clinic at cape maclear. he had spent 5 months in lilongwe working and what do u know, he worked on the same team as I at Kamuzu central hospital which is the hospital i worked. He knew all the health workers i interact with and we had a great time discussing the good, the bad and the ugly experiences we had. I am glad someone felt the same thing I feel working in the hospital.
I finally made it to lilongwe late in the evening, and after a dinner at a korean restaurant which has Wifi located close to where I live, i decided to call it a night.
A great weekend and definately a breath of fresh air
4 more weeks left in lovely Malawi.

1 Comments:
Glad to see you had a "relaxing weekend" in Malawi. You do have to be careful ("yes mom") with local transportation; pickup trucks or large flat bed trucks are notorious for tipping over. Be careful with rest homes too, bed bug infestation is the norm and whatever you eat, make sure it is cooked/burned and while I'm at it, remember to take your malaria prophylaxis. It's easy to identify with many expats working in Malawi but some of them are definitely too cynical, egotiscal and condescending toward Malawians and I often try to stay away from that crowd. Hope the next 4 weeks from Malawi will be enjoyable and rewarding. Also, I will email Dr. Kiromera from Namitete/St. Gabriel hospital if you are interested in spending a day or 2 there (just one hour from Lilongwe). It is such a well-run hospital and Dr. Kiromera is a remarkable physician! We want you back in Pittsburgh safely and rejuvenated. T
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